Cord-laying device for sewing-machines.



ARPLIUATION FILED JUNE 10, 191].

Patented Spt.24,1912.

a SHEETS-SHEET 1.

A THJR/VEV B. B. ALLEN.

001m LAYING DEVICE FOR SEWING MACHINES.

APPLICATION FILED JUNE10,1911. 1 Patented Sept. 24, 1912.

3 SHEET8-SHEET 2.

NW a W 0 m hw w WITNESSES:

ATTORNEY E. B. ALLEN. CORD LAYING DEVICE 'FOR SEWING MACHINES.

APPLICATION FILED JUNE 10, 1911. I v 1,039,241. Patented Sept. 24, 1912.

INVENTOH ATTORNEY UNITED sTA'rEs PATENT oirrrcn.

- EDWARD 3; ALLEN, or BRIDGEPORT, connno'rrcn'r, ASSIGNOR TO THE SINGER MANUFACTURING comrimmn CORPORATION oremw JERSEY.

CORD-LAYING DEVICE FOR SEWING-MACHINES.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, Eowano B. ALLEN, a citizen of the United States, residing at Bridgeport, inthe county of Fairtield and State of Connecticut, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in (lord-Laying Devices'for Sewing-Machines, of which the following isa specification, reference being had therein to the accompanying draw- 10 ings. v

This invention has for its object to provide, in combination with, means for producing an overseam including stitch-forming and'feeding mechanisms, meausfor lay- 1 ing a cord within the overseam with its end;

embracedandconcealed by the same, whereby the capability of the overseam to cover the surface beneath it is increased while the unsightly appearance of a cord-end pro- 2tktruding from each extremity of the overseam avoided.

The improvement is designed more-panticularly tor embodiment in buttonhole stitching machines wherein the cord is em- ;2' braced by the edge-covering overseam stitches, but it is obviously adapted for use in connection with other classes of stitching wherein a corded overseam. is desired.

In the preferred form'of the improvement,

3th a cord-guiding or delivering member is per-,

manently directed toward the range of ac-' tion of the stitch-forming mechanism, and

cord-feeding and cutting devices are employed in conjunction therewith in' su'eh 5 manner that the end of the cord is pass dd through the cord-guide and embraced by the initial overseam stitches through which its extremity issubsequently drawn for concealment thereunder, after which the sever- 04' ingof alength of cord slightly shorter than the predetermined length of the oversea/m permits the remainder of the section of cord to-be drawn through the guide by the travel oli'th'e work to which it is thus attached and embraced within the remainder ot the overseamwith its other cut end. covered by the final overseam stitches of the seam.

It will thus be seen that one of the chief objects of the present invention is the po- 69; sitioning of the initial cut end of the cord while the stitching progresses, so as to prevent the objectionable protrusion of the. cord-end tromthe overseam in accordance wane practice. heretofore prevailing. With 56 the gpregtezwedmdqpstment oi the mechanism,

Specification of Letters Patent. Application filed June 1911. Serial No. 632,332.

cord-end that the cord be detained from of the rotary n "cord-guide attached thereto, Fig.

Patented Sept. 24, 1912.

the cut extremity of the cord is drawn within the initial overseain stitch or stitchesso'as to lie directly under the first of the embracing over-seam stitches and so that the subsequently produced superposed barring stitches are arranged in substantially abutting relation tov the, cord-0nd. However, the exact position of; the extremity of the cord relative to thej'fitiitial overscam stitch is not material, so long as the cord-end does not protrude suliiciently from'the overseam to be conspicuous and therefore to mar the appearance of the work. I In any case, it is essential to the correct positioning of the endwise movement through the cord-guide until the stitch-forming mechanism has performed one or more stitch-forming cvcles.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 represents in perspective view, with certain 71; parts omitted, a buttonholc cutting and stitching machine constructed in accordance with my pending application Serial No.

593,784, filed November 23, 1910, and embodying the present invention. Fig. 2 is a perspective view of a portion of the traveling' clamp-plate and a part of the feedingmechanism for imparting thereto its longitudinal movements. Fig. is a partial plan view of parts oi the niechanisn'i belo'w the bracket-arm. Fig. 4 is a perspective view 'eedle-bar bushing with the 5 a similar view, taken from the inner side, of the cord-feedingand cutting devices, and Fig. 6 is a perspective. view of the actuating nneans for the cord-feeding devices. Fig. 7 ,is a plan of the-cord-feeding device, and Fig. 8 a perspective view taken troin the tfront side of the sa1ne, and showingthe cord-cutting means. Figs. 9 and 10 are side elevationsshowing in diii'erent positions relatively to the stitching the cord-guiding, cutting and feeding means. Figs. 11 and 12 are, respectively, a plan and side view of thecord-cutter actuating cam-block. Figs. 13 and 14 are plan views representing diagrammatically the cord-guide and cutter in different positions relatively to the partially stitched buttonhole, and Fig. 15 represents .a finished buttonhole provided with a corded overseam applied to its edgesin nc-, cordance with the present invention.

The machine is constructe with the :ho'llowv rectangular base 1 wit bedrplate 2 11.0

from the rear end of which rises the hollow standard 23 ot' the hraclzetarm having the forwari'jlly extending member t with hollow head 5. -The main or driving shatt 6 is mounted in and longitudinally of the base 1 and is provided with quartering cranks 7 connected by means of pit-men 8 with simila r cranks of the upper or needle. driving sha't't journaled in the bracket-arm member 4- and carrying at its rear end the hand-wheel S). The jogging needle mechanism of the machine is constructed substantially in a cordance with my Patent No. 915.118, of January 4, 1910, the needle making two reciprocations for each rotation ofthe main-shalt (3. The needle-bar 10 has its upper bearing in the boss 11 at the top of the braclcet-arln head and its lower bearing in the rotary bushing 12 journaled in the lower part of the head. 4") and spline-d to the needle-bar by means of the feather 13; The needle-bar has secured upon its lower end the yoke 1-4- in which is journaled the vibratory needlecl.anip 15 carrying the eye-pointed needle 16.

Cooperating with the non-threaded looper 17, threaded looper 18 and loop-detainer 19 all mounted upon a rotary carrier 20 secured at the upper end of the spindle 21 journaled in the bearing block 22 sustained by the base 1, these parts being actuated as described in my application Serial No. 590,269, filed November 2, 1910. The needlebar bushing 12 has fixed thereon the pinion 23 engaged by the teeth of a rackbar 24, and the looper-carrier is connected with a similar pinion engaged by the teeth of the rack-bar 25 whereby the needle and .loop'er mechanisms are given semi rotations in stitching around the eyelet'end of a buttonhole.

The work-clamp comprises the feet 26 upon the clamp-arms'27 suitably mounted pending lugs 30 upon the clamp-plates 28 whose upper faces atl'ord the lower jaws of the work-holder. The clamp-plates 28 are mounted upon the cross slide-plate 29 provided with the deperforated to receive the gulde-bar 31 secured therein by means of set-screws 32. The opposite ends of the guide-bar enter apertures in the depending lugs 33 of the longitudinal slide-plate 34 whose undercut inner edges 35 are fitted to correspondingly formed guideways' provided upon the top of the bed-plate- 2, thus permitting the longitudinal movement of the plate 3 1. l 7

The'rcduced rearward portion of the slideplate 341 has secured thereon the plate 36 formed near its rearward edge with the transverse slot 37 entered by the cylindrical portion of the upwardly extending hollow stud 3? having squared upper extremity 38 and flanged lower extremity 39, this stud being fitted to the threaded upper portion of; the bolt; 40 whose notched head/11 is needle 16 is the,

porting shaft is interposed fitted within the undercut longitudinal groove 42 of the swinging arm i3 formed at one end with the boss 1 emljiracing the fulcrum-stud 45 sustained by the bed 2. The stud 38 is held in position upon the arm 13 by the clamping of the latter between its flange 39 and the bolt-head 11, and the stud may be shifted lengthwise of the slot 42 by loosening the same for adjustment and reti rhtcning it inthe adjusted position.

The arm 4-3 carries upon its under side the depending stud 4-6 which enters the feed cam-groove -17 in the upper face of the cam-wheel 48which is provided also with the change cam-groove 41) entered by a stud 5!) depending from one arm 51 of the shiftlcver fulcrumed at 52 Whose other arm 53 carries a stud 54 entering a. longitudinal guidewa'y in the block 55 attached to the under side of the cross slide-plate 29. The step-by-step rotation of the cam-wheel 4.8 thus causes the longitudinal travel of,the slide-plate 34: connected by means of the guide-bar 3l with the cross slide-plate 29, which latter, carrying the Work-holder, de-

rivcs its sidewise movements fromthe camgroove 4.9 through the rock-lever a manner well known. The cutting mechanism comprises the traveling fulcrum-block 56 carryingthe pin.

cam 64: serves to impart traveling moveand from stitching position toments toward the fulcrum-block, and the cam 62 imparts the closing movement of the upper cutting member upon the lower cut-ting member.

The cutter-shaft 63 provided with a loose belt-wheel 68 connected with the source of power, and between which and its supa coupling device and stopping means whereby the cuttershatt receives only one complete rotation at the beginning or end of a buttonhole stitching operation.

The needle-bar bushing 12 carries at its lower end the block 69 having secured upon one face by mean of screws 70 the depending slotted guide-plate 71 in the parallel guide-slots of which works the pin 72 carried by the necdleclamp 15; and to another side of the block 69 is secured by means of the screw 73 the.dcpendingbracket-piece 7 1 constituting an extension of the arm 75 havmg at its lower end the taper cord-guiding therev.'ith, and therefore partakes of its cord-guide 76 is thus sustained permanently at. a unifOrm distance from the range ot action of the needle and in fixed relation rotary movements with the bushing '12 in stitching around the eyelet end of a buttonhole. The arm 75 is showg herein secured adjustably upon the brac ct-piece 74 byaimeans of the screw 75", whose shank enters a larger hole 75 therein to permit a a slight lateral play,but it is evident that these parts inay be made integral, and the adjustment of the guide-tube 76 otherwise provided for, if desired.

One side of the head 5 of the bracket-arm is provided near its lower end with a seat to which is secured by means of screws 77 the foot 78 of a 'bracket 79 to which is attached by fastening screws 80 the foot 81 of 1 a bracket 82 formed with a transversely arranged bearing boss 83 having at one end an annular cavity 84 to receive the cord-feed wheel 85 with annularly grooved and transversely serrated periphery. {The feed-wheel 85 is fixed upon one end of the rotary shaft 86 jjournaled in the bearingboss 83 and carrying upon its opposite end the bevel pinion 87 fixed thereon by means of the pin -'88. The pinion 87 meshes with .a larger bevelrgear .89 which is secured by means of the transverse pin 90 upon the adjacent end of a rotary shaft 91 which is journaled in a second bearing boss 92 of the bracket 82 and. has fixed upon its opposite end the clutch-wheel 93 provided at its periphery with the inwardly extending annular flange 94.

The feed-wheel cavity 84; communicates with an opening 84* at its lower side, and the bracket 82 is formed at the same side with the cord passage 95 having substantially the same inclination as the cord-guiding tube 76 and crossing the opening 84 approximately tangentially to the cavity 84, the outer endof its passage being shown provided'with a tubular bushing 95. Secured to the lower edge of the bracket 82 by means of thefastening screw 96 is the flat spring 97 carrying upon its upper face the block 98 fitted loosely to the opening 849 which it enters for the purpose of applying a yielding pressure to a cord interposed between the same and the serrated periphery of the cord-feed wheel. As represented in Fig. 7, the spring97 is adapted .to be shifted laterally out of operative position to relieve the normal pressure upon the cord and to permit the introduction of the cord in threading up the machine.

Upon the hub 93 of the feed-wheel 93 isloosely mounted the hub 99 of the clutchlever 100, the hub being provided at one side with a notch 101 affording a shoulder for em gagement with the inner end of the radial clutch-dog 102 'formed in one face near its outer end with the transverse notch 103 cmbracing the flange 94 of the clutch-wheel 93, the clutch-dog being maintained yieldingly in operative relation with the flange .94 and with the shoulder 101 by means of the spring 104 secured to the hub 99 of the clutchlever 10 a The utch-lever has secured thereto by means of the stud-screw 105 one end-of a pitman 106 whose eyed opposite end embraces the crank-pin 107 having an undercut head 108 fitted to and clamped adjustably within a similarly formed slot in the crankarm 109 fixedupon the cutter-actuating shaft (33, the crank-pin being clamped in position by means of the nut 110 applied thereto. The bearing boss 92 is provided adjacent the clutch-wheel 93 with-an annular flange lllwith a lateral extension 112 between which and the body of the clutchwheel 93 is interposed the radial holding dog 113 laterally notched similarly to the clutch-dog 102 to embrace the flange 94 and having secured to one face the spring 114. The flange extension 112 carries two stoppins 115 and 116. the one engaging one face of the holding dog 113 and the other contacting with the outer face of the spring 114, thereby confining the holding dog yieldingly between them and insuring against the backward movement of the clutch-wheel as the clutch-lever 100 moves to-and-fro. in imparting to the clutch-wheel 93 its operative movements under the act-ion of the clutch-dog 102.

One face of the bracket 82 transverse to the cord passage 95 affords a flat seat to which is secured a hardened plate 117 having an orifice 118 in register with the delivery end of the cord passage 95 and affording one member of the cord-cuttlng device. Fulcrumed upon the screw-stud 119 tapped into the plate 117 is an angle-lever having the forwardly extending cutter-arm 120, the backwardl-y extending arm 121 and the upwardly extending arm- 122, the latter having a perforation entered by one end of the spring 123 whose opposite end is attached to a rigid arm 124 secured to the bracket 82.

'The upper inner edge of the arm 120 is sharpened to form a knife-edge 120 which is maintained in contact with the adjacent face of the plate 117 and normally below th orifice 118 of the. latter. The arm 121 of the angle-lever has a depending lug 125 whose extremity normally rests in contact with the top of the camblock 126 formed with an extension 127 having an elongated aperture 128 entered by the shank of a fastening screw 129 by means of which said block is adjustably secured upon the rigid sustaining arm 130 whose foot 131 isiecured by means of the screw ()verlving the cutter-lever 120, 121, 122 is thecover-plate 136 which is secured in po-' sition partly by means of the fulcrum screwpin .119 and partly by the screw 137, a-spacing Washer 138 surrounding the screw 137 being interposed between the plates 117v and 136 to space them apart for the free action of the angle-lever in performing its function; a

In the sta rt-ingposition of the mechanism, the lug 125 rests upon the top of the forward end of the cam-block 126 as represented in Fig. 8. Early in the travel of the workholder in stitching the first side of the butv shitting of the -usual manner,

tonholeythe lug 125 drops ofi the shouldered part '134 into the notch or recess under the action of the spring 123 which draws the arm 122 into'contact with the stop-pin 139, thus causing the knife-edge 120 to move across the cord orifice to sever the cord; The continued movement of the work-h older carries the cam-block beneath the lug 125 and causes the latter to ride up the incline 135 and. along the top of the block during the remainder of travel of the work-holder in stitching the first side of the buttonhole, the

latter for the second sidestltching operation causing the travel of the lug 125 across the rearward end of the block and the movement of the work-holder in the second side-stitching operation causing the lug 125 to perform its return movement lpon the straight upper face of the block along the opposite edge from the notched port on; 4

preparing the machine for covering the edges of a buttonhole with a corded overseam, the several members of the stitch-- forn'iing mechanism are threaded in the a lower cord or piirl-thread being preferably threaded through the needlc aperture of the throat 140, and the upper cord 0 is introduced in the bushing 95 and drawn freely through the opening or recess 84* beneath the feed-wheel 85 and thence through th'ecord passage 95 with its extremity substantially at -the mouth of the orifice 1.18 of the cutter-plate 117.

the cutter-lever 121 rests upon the top of the forward end of the cainblock 126 and pretera blyun longitudinal alinement with thethe rigid arm 130. The

stitches, the lug 125 121 rides ofi the shoulder 134 into the recess I the spring 123, to

I In the initial 1 PQSltlOIl ofthe work-holder the lug 125 of of the buttonhole cutthe cutter-shaft 63 and its crank-arm 109, thereby imparting to the clutch-lever 100 a single vibration communicating to the c0rdfeed wheel 85 apartial rotation which serves to propel a section of the cord through the orificells into the mouth of the guide-tube work in within the range of jogging movement of the needle16, as represented in B 1g.

13. 'The'st1tch-forming mechanism now be,

.ing thrown into operation, the initial overseam stitches s are applied to theedge of the nttonhole slit t at the closed end and they 'are'spaced by the longitudinal feed of tlie .work holder under the action 01; the cam- Wheel the cord and of the first overseam stitches 4.8, the position of the initial end of 76 which directs its initial end upon the I being represented in Fig. 9. As the initial end portion of the cord .thus embraced within the first of the overseam stitches is still connected with the portion gripped by the now stationary feed-Wheel mounted within the fixed bracket 82, it will be observed that the fabric m will travel with the workholder while the cord is detained, thus causing the extremity of the latter to be drawn beneath the initial overseain stitches s as represented in Figs. 10 and 14. After the travel of the cam-block 126 with the workholder in the production of the first new of the cutter-1cver-arm 133, thereby permittin rock the cutter-lever so as to sever the cord at the end of the orifice 118, and effeting the release of a sectionofcord partially fastened to the work by the first overseain stitches, andcausing this section of the cord to be drawn through the guiding member 76 during the lDilgitlKliilfll feed and side-shiftniovenumts'of the work and the semi-rotation of the stitching mechanism in the production of the succeeding overseam stitches a, as represented in full and dotted lines in Fig. 11, and inclcsing the remainder of the section of cord within the overseani in the usual manner. The position of the crankpin 107 is so adjusted upon the arm 109 that the cord-feed movement to advance the required length of cord foreach buttonhole, and each section of cord is in practice of such a length that its final end is laid within the lastfew oven seam stitches a",

Fig. 15.

It has been common heretofore to lay a cord within the covering overseam stitches of a buttonhole, but the mechanism for a plying the acid has been such that the initi al end of the cord was undisturbed after the application of the first overseam stitch overlying the same and the section of the cord em-i braced by the overseam was severed from the" body of the cord only afterthe Completion of wheel 85 receives just sutticient so as to be wholly covered i and concealed thereby as represented ID uprising stitch-forming improvement a cotton cord may be embraced the stitching operation, thereby leaving the cut ends of the cord exposed upon the face of the work in the finished buttonhole. According to the present improvement, the cord is laid u on the face of the work and serves not on y to give, body-to the overseam around the edges of the slit but to increase the covering effect of the overseam, even when the component stitches thereof are comparatively widely spaced, and the ends of the cord are as completely invisible as if the cord were entirelycabsent.

With the present method f laying the cord the work has practically all of the advantages of employment of a corded overseam without the disadvantage of marring the appearance of the finished article at the end of the buttonhole. One of the chief objeots of employing a corded overseam upon the face of the work is to effectively cover the surlace around the buttonhole slit, and it is found in practice that with the present Within an overseam formed of silk of which the component stitches are comparatively widely spaced, thereby producing a saving in the quantity of silk required and increasingrate of production by reducing the total number of stitches in each buttonhole.

' The present improvement is shown and described herein as embodied in an eyelet buttonhole stitching machine in which the cutting of the buttonhole slit takes place in advance of the stitching operation and in which barring stitches are applied at the smaller end .of the buttonhole at the completion of the side-stitching operation, but the relative timing of the buttonhole cutting and stitching devices, the method of laying the'barri'ng stitches, and provision for m'aking barring stitches are obviously imma-H terial ttivthe invention, which is susceptible of association with widely diflere'nt types of mechanism for production of an-overseam.

Having thus set forth the nature of the invention, what I'claim herein is 1. In a sewing machine, the combination with means for producing an overseam comprising stitch-formin and feeding mechanisms, of a cord-gin e for layin a cord .within said overseam, and means or effectin the drawing of the cord-end within the initial end of the overseam.

2. In. a sewing machine, the combination with means for producing an overseam comandfeeding mechanisms, of a cord-guide for laying-a cord within said overseam, and means disposed between the delivery end "off the cord-guide and the source of c'ord supply for measuring and cutting ofi a length 0 cordprior to its delivery from the cord-guide.

3. In asewing machine, the combination with means for producing an overseam comprising stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a cord-guide for laying a cord Within said overseam, intermittent y acting means for effecting the drawing of the initial cord-end through the -initial overseam stitches, and means for measuring and cutting off a length of cord proportionate to but shorter than the length of the overseam.

4. In a sewing machine, the combination with means for producing an overseam comprising stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a cord-guide for laying a cord within said overseam, a cord-cutter, and actuating mcansadapted to impart operative -movements to said cord-cutter and timed to impart such operative movements while the stitch-torming mechanism is in action.

5. In a sewing machine, the combination with means for producing an overseam comprising stitch-forming mechanism, and feeding mechanism for producing relative feeding movements between the stitch-forming mechanism and the work for spacing the stitches, of cord-presenting means sustained at a fixed distance from said stitch-forming mechanism and adapted to present to it a cord to be embraced by said overseam, and means for temporarily detaining the cord from passage through said cord-presenting means as the stitching and feeding progresses.v

6. In a sewing machine, the combination with means for producing an overseam comprising stitch-forming mechanism and feeding mechanism for producing relative feeding movements between the stitch-forming mechanism and the. work for spacing the stitches. of a cord-guide, cord-supply means for delivering a cord thereto, and cutting mechanism intermediate the cord-guide and the cord-supply means and controlled in its action by said relative feeding movements for cutting'otf lengths of cord delivered to said cord-guide. v

7. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with means for roducing an overseam comprising stitchorming and stitch-forming mechanism, and a 'cord-supply device mounted independently of said cord-guide and adapted to register with the cord-guide in the latters initial position but to remain out of register therewith at other times. -'8. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with means for producing an overseam comprising stitchforming and feeding mechanisms, of a cord-guide revolubly mounted for movement around the stitch-forming mechanism, a c ord-supply-device mounted independently of. said cordguide and adapted to deliver the cord thereto, and means adjacent the cord-supply device for cutting the lengths of cord e ivered to the cord-guide.

nism and cooperating looper mechanism. a

rotary. support for said needle mechanism, and feeding mechanism for producing relative feeding movements between the stitch forming mechanism and the work, whereby an overseam, is produced, of a cord-guide mounted upon said rotary support, and a cord-supply device mounted upon a-nonrotary part of the machine and adapted to register with the cord-guide in the latters initial position but toremain out of register therewith at other times.

10. In a buttonh'olc sewing machine, the combination with means for producing a buttonhole with overseamed edges comprising buttonhole cutting mechanism, and stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a cord guide, c'ord feeding mechanism connected with and actuated by said cutting mechanism whereby the cord is delivered to the-cord-guide, and means for cutting off lengths of cord entering the cord-guide.

11. In abuttonhole sewing machine, the combination with a frame, overseaming stitch-forming mechanism sustained thereby, a traveling -workholder, andt'ceding mechanism connected with said work-holder, of a cord-guide sustained. by said frame in fixed relation to the stitclrforming mechanism, cord-feeding means for delivering the cord to said guide, a cord-cutting device, and actuating means therefor controlled in its action bythe travel of the work-holder. 12. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with. overseaming stitch-forming mechanism, a traveling worlclioltler, and feeding mechanism connected with said, work-holder, of a cord-guide, feeding means for delivering the cord to said guide, a cordcutting device comprising a spring-pressed lever, and a, cam-block connected to and moving with the work-holder and operatively engaging said lever to eiiect the actuation of the cord-cutting device.

13. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with means for producing a buttonhole with overseamed edges, comprising stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle-bar carrying a needle and journaled in and connected for rotation with a rotary support, and feeding mechanism, of a cord-guide fixed to and revoluble with said support and directed to- Ward the range of movement of saidstitchforming mechanism, and a cord-supply device sustained upon a fixed support eccentrically to the axis of movement of the cordguide and in register with the latter in one of its positions and adapted todeliver a section of cord to the same. r

14-. In a butt-on'ho'le sewing machine, the combination with means for producing 9.

buttonhole with overseamed edges, comprisreeiprocating needle-bar carrying a needle and JOllIllillGd in and connected for rotation nism, of a cord-guide fixed to and revoluble with said support and directed toward the range of movement of said stitch-forming mechanism, a cord-supply device sustained upon a fixed support ecceut'rically to the axis of movement of'the cord-guide and in register with the latter in one of its positionsand adapted to deliver a section of cord to the same, and means sustained in permanent operative relation with the cordsupply device for cutting oti' sections of cord.

15. In a b uttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitclrforming and feeding mechanisms, actuating means therefor, buttonhole cutting mechanism and actuating means for the same including an intermittently rotating. cutter-shaft driven independently'of the first-named actuating means, of a cord-guide, and cordieeding mechanism connected with and actuated by said cutter-shaft.

combination with a traveling work-holder, stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, actuating means therefor, buttonhole cutting mechanism and actuatingmeans for the same including anintermittently rotating cutter-shaft driven independently of the first-named actuating means, of a cordguide, cord-feeding mechanism connected with and actuated by said cutter-shaft, a cord-cutting device, and means connected to and movable with the worlcholder for actu ating the same. V

i 17. In a sewing machine, the combination with means for producing an overscam comprising stitch-forming and feeding mechaand actuating means therefor operative in-- dcpendcitly of and timed to act prior to the initial operation of the stitch-forming mechanism. I I

'18. In a sewing machine, the combination with means for in-o'ducing an overseam comprising stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, ot a cord-guide', cord-fccdiug means means for said feed-wheeltimed to complete 'its action before rhc eiidof thcperiod of operation of the stitch forming mechanism.

19. Ina sewing imichi ne,'the C(Hl'lblnHi'lOll with mcan sifor producing an overseam comprising stitch-forming and feeding mecha nisms, ofa cord-guide, a cord feeding device, actuating means therefor com'luding its action prior to the operation of the stitcir forming mechanism, a. cord-cutting device and actuating means fo the same acting during the period of operation of the stitchforming mechanism. i

with a rotary support, and feeding mccha- 16. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the

ing stitclrforming mechanism including a' nisms, of a cord-guide, cord-feeding means,

including a rotary 'i'ced-whccl. and actuating with overseam-producing means comprising stitch-forming and feedin mechanisms, of, a cord-guide directed wit in the range of action of the stitch-forming mechanism, and

means operating to detain the advance por+ tion of the cord against endwise movement through the cord guide during the production of an initial overseam stitch andit'o thereafter release the same for delivery frem' the cord-guide. I

22. In a sewing machine, the combinatidn with overseam-producing means comprising stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, hf

- a cord-guide, and a cord-feeding device alf ting to detain the cord through a portion of the period of continuous operation of he machine and in opposition to the feed ofrthe work whereby the advance end of the cord may be positioned beneath the overseam stitches. Y

23. In a sewing machine, the combination with overseam-producing means, of a cord guide for laying a cord within the overseam, and means for measuring a length of cord and cutting ofi the same during its delivery from the cord-guide.

'24:. In a sewingmachine, the combination with overseam-producing means comprising stitch-forming and work-feeding mechanism, of a cord-guide for laying a cord within and actuating means therefor'having an operative connection with a moving part of the machine and timed to produce the cord cutting action before the work-feeding mechanism has completed its action in the prodii'ction of the overseam.

25/ In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch forming mechanism and feeding mechanism including a work-engaging member? of a cord-guide directed within the rar ge of action of the stitch-for ming mechanism, and cord-severing means arranged crosswise of the cordrguide and controlled and timed in its severing action by the movement of said work-engaging member.

26. In a sewing machine, the combination flvith stitch-forming and feeding mecha- /nisms, of a cord-guide directed withifi'the range of action of the stitcgy-forming mechanism, a cord-cutting devide'arranged crosswise of the cord-guide, an'd actuating means therefor operatively connected with the feeding mechanism from which it derives initial overseam stitch has been produced.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my of two subscribinlg witnesses.

*DVVARD B. ALLEN. Witnesses HENRY J. MILLER, Harl n A. KORNEMANN, Jr.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the "Commissioner of Patents. Washington, D. 0. i i

name to this specification, in the presence the overseam, a cord-cutting device,

operative movements communicated'to the the cord through said guide until after an 

